Where do I begin on the CRX Build?  Let's get it back on the road!



family it's something to address Danny's dad just I went all right guys so I'm out here today I'm gonna play around with the maroon 49 my first goal is to try getting this hood to shut ever since the damage you can see right here see how this is like pushed up I think I need to bend it here kind of push this area back up on both sides because when I lower the hood you'll see see how it sticks up like it doesn't properly fit into its spot anyone you can tell by looking up here that area is bent up and look across on this side see how it's bent in so far so I think once I do that it'll hopefully help bring this back down to a more natural position it kind of seems like it sticks out a little farther now but not worried about perfect fit obviously that's it's destroyed already and messed up I don't want to try to get it secured so I can start working on the engine and I can secure the hood without having to worry about it having any further damage maybe flying up again or obviously you just need a secured hood to be able to drive the car looks like they cut the holes just drilled it out tried sliding it over so did bolt up to the USDM t-bar but that didn't seem to be working Manny and I took the foot off the card you can see like the dents here which kind of I think they've lift the front of it and some throughout we're just gonna try to hit certain areas obviously if we can get it a little bit more I guess round began so it the front of it was sticking up a little bit over the bumper and over the headlights I think in these areas you can tell where it needs to be pushed up we're gonna kind of souping correct a little bit of those and so if it's just a little bit better on the car and then we get those pins installed it'll make it a lot easier to get those flying up well guys I think that's about as good as I'm gonna get it and like obviously right here see how it doesn't fit over the headlight and it's not like this hood is in great shape so that's probably one of the reasons it's kind of off to the left but it it fits now where I think we'll be able to get the hood pins on there but we can just secure it like that and those hood pins the arrow catch they're nice because if I say I go with a different front end I can always just remove these these are removable they're not stuck on there for good so I could take these off and put them on a different hood also and then these have the locks where if we take it somewhere we can of course keep it secured that's someone you try to pop the hood so I think that's where we're gonna leave it for now I'm gonna work on getting these hood pins set up somewhere on the radiator support determine where I want to put these and then we'll leave them this way how totally like the side look I want to do them straight like forward and back on the hood I'm mounting the hood pins I decided to ditch the arrow catch these are purchased for my 96 si for my track car I just had not installed them and I was excited throwing one here but I changed my mind because I think it's pointless to put an $80.00 set of hood pins on this banged up hood so I went over to ebay I found a set of generic hood pins these have the little clip which holds it to the mount just slides on and off doesn't lock but I think it'll serve its intended purpose well just keeping this hood secure and I only paid twelve dollars for these it was easier to do this because tightening the nut on the bottom and then I had to drill the hole because the JT I'm headlight it like lines up underneath all of this I can't use this hole because the the pin doesn't slide down that far so I wouldn't be able to have adjustability and pulls closer to the hood if I need to and the pins are done the only thing I had to do after getting it mounted I grind it off the rest of the pin because this hyung really low and when the headlights slid in the back of the headlight was actually touching up against this and I wasn't able to bolt up the headlight after planer out the hood the other day I went ahead made a little bit of suspension changes let me show you those clips here really quickly here I'm pulling up all the suspension I want to check the camber kit obviously and a generic replica some sort of eBay kit I have a skunk too that I got off of that blue Civic hatchback that I bought last September I'm gonna put that on today I'm also gonna push the bushings out the rubber ones that are in the upper control arm I'm gonna throw in the set of energy suspension and I'm swapping knuckles right now this is the knuckle that was on it they're both DEA this one just has extended wheel studs it doesn't have new bearings or ball joints yet I'll get to that not today I don't have the parts for it but I will put it back together it's relatively easy to get a knuckle removed plus I want to change out the tie rod on it also and I might even do something about the the steering rack to panel how it feels [Applause] as you've seen in some of my videos before that press is very essential when trying to change any of these bushings to urethane bushings on your car I was working on the rear suspension getting rid of the 88 style control arms just because the shocks and coilovers I'm going to go with will not be that's particular style and one thing that's kind of painted the foot as I had an extra set of LCAs here's our OEM and I had the bushings energy suspension what you're just gonna use on here and it didn't have the provision a little nut welded on and the hole for the LCA so what I did I just kind of marked it off up against the body of the car with the original LCA is where the sway bar mounts there and just drill the hole because I'll be able to push the bolt through and then put a nut on the opposite side if that particular bolt isn't long enough I can just source another one and feed that through that way I can still retain these LCAs I'm trying I'm not trying to spend extra money on another set of lower control arms when these energy suspension bushings still look like they're in very very good shape that mod worked perfect just had to use a longer bolt and a nighlok now I'm using that stock LCA and those energy suspension bushings coilovers will be upgraded eventually but we're not doing that today so I'm getting a couple check engine lights if you're not familiar with how to check them you can check here by counting the blinks on your ECU if it's a nobody zero and I'm getting to check engine lights one is for the knock sensor which is right below the intake manifold up against the head the second one is for idle air control valve I was looking right now you can't see it's a little dark in there but there's not even a knock sensor attached my other control valve I'm just gonna disconnect it and pull it out and then test it on the battery using a positive and negative you can actually hear it open and close and then I'm going to try cleaning it see if that kind of solves that issue I went and bought a new knock sensor this one was only about seven dollars shipped it has a little bit different plug which I prefer this one is squared not think I have any extra squared plugs this one is similar to all the other plugs that are on the motors so I'm just going to try the new one out and see if I can fix the knock sensor issue very quickly the first thing I'm checking is on this connector the knock sensor is actually b19 which if you look at this flip it over look at it from this side the top left is number one so you count all the way across one three five seven nine seven so it's very last one here doesn't look like there's anything connected to it they have something going to be twenty which is uh I don't know be twenty years there should be something that's messed with I believe maybe they thought that was be nineteen and plugged it in I'm gonna follow these wires looks like they created this little harness and it goes into the engine bay I'm gonna see if I can figure out where that goes but they do have b5 tapped which is the oil pressure switch that's correct for the VTEC solenoid and it doesn't add anything else there's a handful of other little wires running around this one is really annoying it goes to this other side over here and it connects to the fuse box and when I pull it out the fuel pump doesn't get power so I'm gonna have to figure that out I'm not worried about that right now the car still runs just assuming tackle this knock sensor after doing a little bit of digging around removed a crapload of electrical tape a little bit of a mess in here I found that one of the wires I was coming from the ECU this one went straight to the iacv so obviously it has the incorrect connector to it one wire should be a two wire connection and it should be part of the original harness I don't know if it's down there I just want to see what all these wires were figured out that the v-tex solenoid and pressure switch they're wired up correctly follow the two leads lead it into the ECU there's no issue with that so the knock sensor looks like it just needs to be wired up and then I need to figure out where the IAC V goes and then of course clean up some of these wiring determine what's going on with the fuel pump and then why it has power wires already hooked up to the battery same with the fan the fan is hardwired and this wire goes somewhere somewhere under the cabin as well so I'm gonna try to figure that out just gonna see if I can get this IEC V and knock sensor knocked out first [Applause] okay the knock sensors finished up when wired it to be nineteen where it belongs I'm gonna remove these connectors that they have which kind of splice into the original wire she's gonna repin it with new connectors I always have extra ECU plugs that way just pull pins out and then solder those up to a new wire nothing I'm going to do it for pressure switch and the VTech solenoid just I have cleaner wires and eliminate some of the connections that they have because both of these have a little butt connector in the center that way you can disconnect it or reconnect it here's my mess at the end of today bunch of wires and little heat shrink old plugs plugs that had exposed wires on them so I went ahead and put a new plug that one right there was actually the the pressure switch on the VTech solenoid but I rewired the the pressure switch solenoid knock sensor those are set found these wire hanging here this is a weird connector this doesn't belong on this wiring harness you can see they connected it I don't know if these are the wife or the idle air control valve I'm gonna double-check the colors I don't think it is just doesn't seem like it's long enough but then again it is cut so maybe they I don't I really don't know what they were doing actually I'm gonna figure that out did get chance to finish that today and then I'm gonna work on the fan wire and sieve and get that to work as it should again then I'll remove like down here still has the AC wiring harness I'll remove that wiring because it's no longer needed just clean some of this up found a couple cut wires here so that might be where the original fan can extra go connection goes so I'll be out here on my next day off I'm going to work on that and see if I can get it running with no check engine lights and appropriately




Comments
  1. Idk if any of you crx owner have this problem. But it's common. The truck take time to shut it . How do you fix that problem? So it shuts smoothly?

  2. If you use a rubber mallet and the wood block on the passenger side you can probably get a bit more of that kink out

  3. Someone obviously hasn't watched your videos. Love what you do, but watching that "body work" was painful! Get yourself a set of hammers and dollies from HF, $37.

  4. great video as always Jon!

    im having the same issue with my ed6, that the previous owner make his own wiring for the ac Fan and Rad Fan, do you have by any chance, the wiring diagrams for the ef's ? i want to revert everything again to original.

  5. Where to begin? Well, you can start by being thankful that the floor pans are still there. That the suspension isn't about to fall off because it's entirely rusted out.

  6. @garagebuilthondas my co-worker has a 89 Honda crx with some rust over the fenders very little rust it doesn't look super bad but seeing as how you have a lot of experience with crx's is it worth fixing the rust?

  7. Motivating me to work on my CRX.
    I've been spending all my time and money just on the hatch. Keep up the great content ๐Ÿ‘

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *